Front Cover of book
Neil Thomson (Ed)
Published by
Reader's Digest in 2002
ISBN 0 276 42610 X
Weather-Struck Pointing
page 36
page 36
A rare example of using a Frenchman
page 37
page 37
A Frenchman is a normal butter-knife, with a bent-tip, used to trim away the excess mortar, and leave a clean straight line. The timber batten prevents the mortar dropping onto the rest of the work
Re-Pointing a Wall
Step 1 - page 37
Use a plugging chisel and rake out the old mortar to a depth of about 12mm
Remove debris and
dampen the wall
page 37
page 37
page 37
page 236
Bed of Sand
Sand makes a good shock absorber, when cutting bricks
It can prevent them from shattering and you are more likely to get clean cuts
page 236
Using a Gauge Rod
This is a hand-made guide, with the courses marked at exactly 75mm. The top of each brick should be on the mark
It ensures that the height of each course is correct
A tape-measure is better
page 236
Copings
Brick garden walls need a roof, called a coping,
to keep the rain out
The concrete is tapped down with the wooden handle, which is less likely to cause damage than the metal head
page 236
Mesh for Reinforcement
Pierced concrete blocks need Ex-Met on every 2nd course. It should also be tied into the pillars
Without reinforcement, the wall is liable to collapse
page 236
Mixing Mortar
Rest each on a brick so the weight of the mix causes the board to sag in the middle.
This ensures that water doesn't spill over the edges
Building a Wall
Although these instructions are a bit vague,
they provide an quick introduction
Lay mortar on the footings
Bed first brick into place, tamp down and check that it is level
Although these instructions are a bit vague,
they provide an quick introduction
page 237
Bed first brick into place, tamp down and check that it is level
page 237
Lay more bricks to finish course
page 237
Trim off any excess mortar
page 237
Then finish all joints neatly
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